My French Haircare Routine — What’s Been Working for Me

I think I’ve spent most of my life confusing the state of my hair with its true nature. I always believed I had ultra-fine hair—flat, limp, lacking body, and barely there. Back when I wore it long, years ago, it was always stringy and lifeless, no matter how many haircuts or blow-dries I tried. Nothing ever held for long. I just assumed that was the way my hair was, and for nearly a decade, I stuck to the same short bob, cut right at the jawline with a few longer strands here and there to create the illusion of volume and movement. I was convinced it was the only haircut that suited my fine, flat hair.

For the longest time, I also struggled with roots that would get oily far too quickly—within just two days—paired with dry, brittle ends. I thought it was probably because I was living in a heavily polluted city. That was until one day, while sitting in a salon chair in Amsterdam, everything changed.

The stylist, while casually working through the knots in my post-shampoo hair (not without a hint of annoyance), mentioned—as if it were the most obvious thing in the world and something I surely already knew—that I actually had a lot of hair. It was the first time anyone had ever said that to me! And he wasn’t the last Amsterdam hairstylist to tell me the same thing. That one comment completely upended my long-held beliefs. I had always thought my hair was flat because it was fine and because there wasn’t much of it. The idea that I might actually have thick or abundant hair had never crossed my mind.

Then a few months later, I had something of an epiphany. In May 2024, I discovered Chemena Kamali’s new vision for Chloé—models with long, ultra-natural hair, slightly tousled waves that added body and volume, flowing freely with a distinct ’70s inspiration. It was the exact opposite of the neat, structured bob I was still wearing at the time. And suddenly, I felt this irresistible urge to grow my hair out—for the first time in ages.

It’s now been a full year since my last haircut on April 2nd, 2024. My hair is shoulder-length, and I’m planning to visit the salon again soon—only for a light trim to freshen up the ends, which are very much in need of some attention. Skipping the hairdresser for this long gave me the perfect opportunity to completely rethink my haircare routine. And since I was saving money on salon visits, I decided to finally invest in proper haircare products—something, I must admit, I had never really done before :).

1. Invest in a Quality Hairbrush

This is one of those investments I truly don’t regret, because a quality hairbrush does make all the difference. A few years ago, I was quite hesitant to spend $200 or even $300 on a hairbrush. It felt extravagant at the time. But looking back, I can honestly say I have no regrets (even if it was a slightly impulsive purchase). My reasoning then was simple: a good hairbrush isn’t something you buy every year, and that’s absolutely true ;).

About four years ago, I purchased this Handy Bristle Hair Brush from Mason Pearson—the Rolls-Royce of hairbrushes, as my hairstylist used to call it. And I have to say, it’s by far the best I’ve ever used. I have fine, straight hair, and this brush smooths and controls the strands beautifully. When I brush from underneath, it even adds volume, a subtle little trick I now rely on. Since I’ve started using it, my roots have become noticeably less oily, which means I can go longer between washes. I also experience much less breakage when detangling, which is especially helpful when, like me, you’re trying to grow your hair out.

I’ve also noticed lots of new baby hairs growing in—perhaps a sign of healthier hair growth? I’m not sure if it’s thanks to the brush, my improved lifestyle, the higher-quality hair products I’ve been using… or maybe a combination of all of the above. Either way, it’s a welcome change :).

I also love the boar bristles, which give the scalp a gentle massage with every stroke. For now, my hair is medium-length, but I’m considering switching to a brush that combines boar and nylon bristles, which might be more suitable as my hair gets longer. When the time comes, I’m thinking of trying the N.03 The Essential Soft Hair Brush from the French brand La Bonne Brosse or the Classic Gentle Detangling Brush by Altesse Studio, both brands often compared to Mason Pearson in terms of craftsmanship and quality.

2. Avoid Silicones in Your Haircare

I had never really taken the time to look at the ingredients in my hair products (like most people, I imagine). But ever since testing beauty products and writing articles to share only the very best with you became my profession, I felt it was time to dig a little deeper. Much like I did for my skincare routine here, I wanted to understand what was actually going onto my hair, and also find solutions to my own concerns: fine, flat, lifeless hair… and roots that got greasy way too quickly.

And I truly believe that what made the biggest difference was cutting out silicones from my haircare routine. Now, silicones aren’t toxic per se, but they tend to act more like a quick fix. They mask hair issues instead of actually treating them. These are occlusive ingredients that coat the hair shaft in a smooth, impermeable film. The result? Hair that looks instantly shinier, softer, and less frizzy… but it’s all surface-level. There’s no deep nourishment happening. Some silicones—especially the water-insoluble ones like dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane—can build up on the hair over time. This buildup suffocates the strands, blocks treatments like oils and masks from penetrating properly, weighs down the hair, and can even lead to scalp issues like flaking or dandruff.

It’s now been nearly ten months since I switched exclusively to silicone-free haircare, and I can honestly say the change has been remarkable. My hair feels denser, looks noticeably thicker, and has regained real volume. I also noticed a dramatic difference with my roots: they no longer get greasy as quickly. I used to have to wash my hair every two days, now I can go up to four days without a shampoo, which feels like such a luxury when you have fine hair. Of course, my hair is still naturally delicate and does tangle more easily, so detangling takes a little longer. But once dry, the result is incomparable, my hair has more body, more texture, and a renewed sense of vitality.

Among the shampoos I love using in this silicone-free routine, the Shampooing au Miel by Leonor Greyl is a true staple. I use it when I want to give my hair a deep cleanse—after an oil treatment, for example (more on that just below)—or anytime my hair feels like it really needs a fresh start. The rich, almost syrupy texture transforms into a soft, delicate foam that cleanses thoroughly without stripping. Another favorite of mine is the Bain Volumateur aux Algues. It’s formulated with sulfate-free cleansing agents derived from coconut or sugar, which are much gentler on the scalp. It also contains a conditioning element to help with detangling—especially helpful for fine, easily tangled hair. It’s designed specifically for long, fine, limp hair… so yes, it ticks all the boxes for me :).

3. Skip Conditioner and Focus on Targeted Treatments

I realized that traditional conditioners were weighing my hair down without actually nourishing it deeply. So, I stopped using them altogether. Now, I focus on pre-shampoo oil treatments, or by lightweight masks and targeted serums after washing.

Have you ever tried an oil treatment? It’s a technique I discovered when I first started using L’Huile de Leonor Greyl—which smells absolutely divine, by the way. Before shampooing, I lightly dampen my hair to help the oil absorb better into the strands. Then, I apply a small amount of this plant-based oil—rich in essential fatty acids—throughout the hair, focusing on the lengths and ends. I let it sit for about 30 minutes to an hour, then follow with a gentle shampoo (sometimes I double cleanse to fully rinse out the oil).

When I don’t have time for an oil treatment, I reach for a few post-shampoo favorites. One I love is the Masque Fleurs de Jasmin, specially formulated for fine, dry hair. It deeply nourishes without weighing the hair down—a rare combination. I also use the Shade Variation Mask in Baby Blond by Christophe Robin to maintain the soft blonde tone of my highlights and to prevent any unwanted brassiness.

And when my hair feels dry or especially tangled, I apply a few drops of the Sérum de Soie Sublimateur. It’s lightweight, non-greasy, and designed for fine hair—perfect for smoothing and hydrating without adding heaviness. I love it because it makes detangling so much easier while leaving my hair silky, soft, and full of movement.

4. Add Volume Without Weighing Your Hair Down

To boost volume in my fine, flat hair, I’ve been using volumizing sprays for a few years now—and they work beautifully with my texture. Two that I really love are the Instant Volumizing Mist with Rosewater by Christophe Robin and Condition Naturelle. I spray a light mist onto my roots and lengths while my hair is still damp, then blow-dry my hair upside down to lift the roots and create natural movement. The volume is instant—every time.

If you’re looking for even more body, I’d recommend trying a lightweight mousse. the Mousse au Lotus Volumatrice (alcohol-free) is a favorite of mine—it adds volume and hold without drying out the hair or making it feel stiff. A quick tip while blow-drying: use your fingers or a round brush to gently lift the roots as you dry. It’s a simple technique, but it makes a big difference in creating soft, lasting volume.

5. What I Use, Why I Love It and What’s Next

Just a quick note to say that this post is not sponsored (as with all the content on this blog), and I personally purchased all the products mentioned here ;). Of course, you’re not obliged to use Leonor Greyl products. I completely understand that they’re not the most budget-friendly option. There are plenty of other haircare brands on the market offering a similar philosophy: more natural formulas, and most importantly, silicone-free. I’m simply sharing these because I truly love them, I’ve tested them over several months, and I wanted to give you an honest account of my experience.

If you’re curious to try the range, I recommend using the products together. For example, I’ve tried the Masque Fleurs de Jasmin on its own, and the results are nothing like when I pair it with the Bain Volumateur aux Algues. When used with another brand’s shampoo, the effect is much less impressive. If you want to explore the Leonor Greyl haircare routine, I’d suggest starting with one of their travel kits—like this one, specifically designed to add volume to fine hair. That’s exactly what I did in the beginning, to test out the formulas before investing in the full sizes.

Speaking of other brands, I’ve heard wonderful things about Rahua, which I’m planning to try very soon. I hope I’ll be able to share more great finds with you in the coming months! And now that my hair is getting quite long, I’m also thinking of investing in the Dyson Airwrap—another cult product I’ve heard so much about. I’d love to start doing proper blow-dries at home and create more volume and movement with ease.

Finally, if you have any recommendations—products, tools, techniques—please don’t hesitate to share them with me. I always love hearing from you, and your suggestions often inspire me to try new things :). I hope this article was helpful and that you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it.