Today is Sunday, and I’m writing to you from my home in Bordeaux. The weather is gloomy—grey skies, rain, and cooler temperatures than usual. Autumn is slowly settling in. I’ve already lit my favorite candle for the fall/winter season, Gabriel by Trudon. It looks like the rain will continue all day, much like a day in Amsterdam! But I’m not writing to give you a weather report—I’m here to share some of my recent discoveries and finds (“mes trouvailles”), which I hope will delight you.

Yesterday, we took a stroll through Bordeaux. If there’s one thing I’ve come to adore since moving back to France, it’s the simple joy of “flâner” (wandering). During our walk, we stumbled upon La Majestueuse, a niche perfume boutique at 73 Rue des Remparts. The shop felt like a cabinet of curiosities, evolving with the seasons and the owner’s whims. Inside, there are rare perfumes, custom lampshades made from 18th- and 19th-century engravings, Art Deco jewelry, a selection of Trudon candles, of course, and various home decor items. I made some beautiful olfactory discoveries: one perfume smelled exactly like coffee liqueur, while another reminded me of my grandmother’s lipstick. One scent even brought back memories of my Saturday horseback riding lessons, with its notes of leather, wood, and tobacco. I also discovered the exquisite French perfume house Oriza L. Legrand, founded in Paris by Fargeon Aîné in 1720 (more than 300 years of history!). If you happen to be in Paris, their boutique is located at 34 bis Rue Vignon in the 9th arrondissement. I was immediately charmed by their vintage-style bottles and evocative names such as Relique d’Amour and Rêve d’Ossian. I’m already planning to order one sample set to explore the full range of their fragrances.

I also came across another beautiful French perfume house, Ella K, created by master perfumer Sonia Constant (who, according to the shop assistant, has an “absolute nose”). I think I’ve found the most beautiful musk I’ve ever smelled: Musc K! If you love Fleur de Peau by Diptyque, you’ll adore Musc K. I find it softer, fresher, and more delicate, even though it shares a similar structure: pink pepper in the top notes, iris at the heart, and musk at the base. Some might say it’s a familiar scent or lacks originality, but to me, it’s absolutely sublime—elegant, comforting, and perfect for autumn. I’ll certainly be ordering samples to explore more of Ella K’s perfumes.

La Majestueuse also had some lovely decorative candle jewelry by the French brand Boncoeurs (which I mentioned in my chic Halloween décor post). I couldn’t resist buying a few pieces: a small halo, a shooting star, and an arrow reminiscent of Cupid. I’m also considering picking up some black candles from Trudon. Before wrapping up our day, I made a stop at Gérard Darel to check out the quality of their pieces, and I wasn’t disappointed!

Last week, we spent a wonderful day in the village of Saint-Emilion (you can see the photos above)—a true medieval gem with over two thousand years of history! It’s absolutely stunning and so picturesque. If you’re visiting Bordeaux and the surrounding area, I highly recommend making the trip. After a short drive from Bordeaux, you’ll pass by beautiful châteaux and vineyards before reaching the village. Be sure to stop for a meal or a glass of wine in the square next to the Monolithic Church and Bell Tower of Saint-Emilion (we had a delightful lunch at Bistrot du Clocher). Then, take your time exploring the narrow streets and enjoy the panoramic views of the village and valley.

On another note, I must confess I’ve never been more eager to move back to Paris! I’m a bit superstitious, so I hope writing this down will help make it come true ;). Perhaps 2025 will be the year—who knows! In any case, I look forward to sharing more with you in my next letter.