The Forgotten Perfumes of Yesterday, Rediscovered Today

A few weeks ago, I shared some fascinating discoveries I made in my father’s quaint chalet nestled in the French Alps (you can read or revisit my Lettre des Alpes here). Among these treasures was a stunning collection of vintage magazines, remarkably well-preserved, titled Le Jardin des Modes and Modes et Travaux, dating from the 1920s to the 1950s.

Beyond the elegant outfits for daytime, afternoon, and evening wear, the exquisite black-and-white photography, and the beautifully illustrated articles written with remarkable finesse, I was captivated by the period advertisements for beauty products of all kinds: “long-lasting” lipsticks, slimming bath salts and soaps, anti-aging creams promising to “erase wrinkles,” and other products pledging eternal youth and beauty.

For me, however, always on the hunt for new olfactory discoveries, the true gems of these magazines were the perfume advertisements from that era—scents I had never encountered before. Inspired by these finds, I decided to dedicate today’s article to sharing these incredible discoveries with you. It also prompted me to delve deeper into the iconic perfumes of the Roaring Twenties (“Les Années Folles,” 1920–1929), a period I am so passionate about (in case you hadn’t noticed the Art Deco inspiration behind my logo). Together, we’ll revisit some of these fragrances, including a few that are still available today. I hope this article will inspire you, help you make beautiful discoveries—both visual and olfactory—and perhaps even tempt you to wear a fragrance that transcends time :).

1. L.T. Piver L’Eau de Cologne aux Fleurs

I discovered Maison L.T. Piver through this 1932 advertisement. L.T. Piver is the oldest French perfumery, founded in 1774, and a pioneer in creating some of the first synthetic perfumes. While it doesn’t seem possible to order their perfumes and colognes directly from the official website at the moment, I was delighted to find two of their iconic creations: Héliotrope Blanc (created in 1850, inspired by the natural scent of a small flower with notes of vanilla, almond, and cherry) and À la Reine des Fleurs (dating back to 1774, featuring citrus notes of orange and lemon, a heart of lavender, and base notes of thyme, rosemary, bergamot, and clove) at Maison Empereur. Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in France, was established in 1827 and is located in Marseille. Good news: they appear to offer international shipping—just in case you’re curious ;)!

2. Bourjois Soir de Paris

This is one of the vintage perfumes on my list that I would absolutely love to experience! Soir de Paris was created in 1928 by Ernest Beaux, the legendary nose behind the iconic Chanel N°5. It quickly became one of the most emblematic fragrances of its generation. Its top notes include violet, peach, apricot, and bergamot. The heart notes feature iris, heliotrope, rose, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley, and jasmine, while the base notes reveal amber, sandalwood, vanilla, and musk. With its powdery composition and prominent violet accord, it evokes Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, created in 1912 by Jacques Guerlain. L’Heure Bleue is also still on my wishlist, though I haven’t yet taken the plunge for a blind purchase due to its price… Maybe this month ;)?

3. Houbigant Les Heures Choisies

4. Houbigant Floraison

I have a deep appreciation for the perfume house Houbigant, founded in 1775 by Jean-François Houbigant. To me, Houbigant captures the essence of flowers in their most exuberant, enveloping, and intoxicating form! I had the chance to discover Quelques Fleurs L’Original, created in 1912 by perfumer Robert Bienaimé, during a visit to Jovoy Paris on a trip to the capital, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I’d love to explore more of their creations, especially since I’m currently drawn to floral, musky, and unmistakably vintage fragrances. On a completely different note, there’s another vintage masterpiece worth discovering—or rediscovering: Fougère Royale, created in 1882, with its slightly more masculine and timeless charm!

4. Lanvin Rumeur

I’m not very familiar with Lanvin perfumes, but I’d love to change that :)! I’m especially intrigued by Arpège, a rich floral bouquet said to surpass the beauty of nature itself. It was created by Paul Vacher and André Fraysse in 1927 to celebrate the 30th birthday of Marie-Blanche, Jeanne Lanvin’s daughter, a musician, and her mother’s close confidante. As for Rumeur, I believe it was reformulated in 2006 by Francis Kurkdjian, though I’m not sure if it’s still available today.

5. D’Orsay Arome 3

I believe I came across a few perfumes from Maison d’Orsay during a visit to the Skins boutique on Runstraat, located in the charming 9 Straatjes neighborhood—one of my favorite areas in Amsterdam. I remember being particularly drawn to À Cœur Perdu, with its beautiful blend of iris, orange blossom, and cashmeran. I’m eager to learn more about their newer creations. Originally founded in 1865 in Paris, during the late Second Empire, as a tribute to Count Alfred d’Orsay, this house was quietly revived in the summer of 2018 with an entirely fresh collection of fragrances.

7. Revillon 4 Vents

A French house I wasn’t familiar with until now :)! From my research, Revillon Frères is a French brand founded in 1839 (during the July Monarchy), with origins tracing back to Maison Givelet in 1723 (under Louis XIV). Originally a fur trading company, it evolved into a major fashion house until 1982, when the business was acquired by the Belgian group Cora, known for its hypermarkets. Such a shame!

Iconic Perfumes of the 1920s to Discover (or Rediscover)

• Guerlain Mitsouko (1919) — Jacques Guerlain named this masterpiece “Mitsouko” after the heroine of La Bataille, a bestselling novel of the time by Claude Farrère, set during the Russo-Japanese War of 1905.
• Caron Tabac Blond (1919) — A refined tribute to Virginia tobacco, this fragrance, crafted by Ernest Daltroff, appealed to women seeking an alternative to the harsh, dark tobacco favored by men. It’s considered a pioneer of the “leather” fragrance family.
• Guerlain Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat (1920) — Created by Jacques Guerlain, this fragrance captures the secret freshness of Mediterranean scents.
• Chanel N°5 (1921) — The iconic fragrance! if you haven’t tried it yet, now’s the time!
• Molinard Habanita (1921) — Initially marketed as a scent for cigarettes to mask tobacco odors, this fragrance evolved into a skin perfume in 1924.
• Chanel N°22 (1922) — A solar, creamy, and amber-forward variation of N°5 that’s still available today.
• Guerlain Shalimar (1925) — A timeless classic, of course!
• Chanel Cuir de Russie (1927)
• Chanel Gardénia (1925) and Bois des Îles (1928) — Two of my personal favorites! Overall, I adore Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection—it’s undeniably vintage in spirit.