Winter is slowly settling in here in Amsterdam. The days are growing shorter, the air a little colder, and I must admit I rather like it. There’s something about that brisk winter breeze that clears my head whenever I go for a walk. And coming home from the cold always makes me want to put a pot on the stove and cook something delicious.
So, for this week’s article, I thought I’d share a little collection of my favourite French recipes for this time of year. Simple, comforting dishes made with seasonal ingredients, and the sort of food I always look forward to when the weather turns chilly. Think velvety vegetable soups, leeks slowly cooked in butter, a good old-fashioned poule au pot, golden gratins, and a few other favourites. Nothing particularly elaborate or fancy, just good, honest French home cooking, full of flavour and easy enough to make again and again. I hope you’ll find a few new favourites among them.
1. Pumpkin and Chestnut Soup (Velouté de Potimarron aux Châtaignes)
This is the sort of soup I love for a cold autumn evening: wonderfully smooth, gently sweet, and comforting without being too rich. The chestnuts give the squash a lovely nutty flavour and naturally thicken the soup, so only a little cream is needed.
Serves 4 | Prep: 10–15 minutes | Cook: 30 minutes
- 750 g (1 lb 10 oz) red kuri squash (potimarron), weighed after removing the seeds
- 150 g (5¼ oz) cooked, peeled chestnuts, unsweetened, plus a few extra for serving (optional)
- 1 medium onion, chopped
- 20 g (1½ tablespoons) unsalted butter
- 600 ml (2½ cups) vegetable stock
- 60 ml (¼ cup) heavy cream
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Wash the raw squash, remove the seeds, and cut it into small chunks, leaving the skin on. Melt the butter in a large saucepan and gently cook the onion for 4 to 5 minutes until softened. Add the squash, cooked chestnuts, and vegetable stock. Bring to a gentle simmer, cover, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, until the squash is very tender. Blend until smooth, stir in the cream, and season well with salt and pepper. Add a little water if the soup is too thick. Serve warm, with a few crumbled chestnuts on top if you like.
2. Creamy Leeks With Wholegrain Mustard (Fondue de Poireaux à la Moutarde à l’Ancienne)
Leeks are one of those humble vegetables that become quite wonderful when cooked slowly in butter. A little crème fraîche, wholegrain mustard, and lemon juice turn them into a delicious side dish, especially with roast chicken, fish, or simply a soft-boiled egg and a slice of good bread.
Serves 4 | Prep: 10 minutes | Cook: 20 minutes
- 4 medium leeks (about 600–700 g / 1½ lb before trimming)
- 25 g (about 1¾ tablespoons) unsalted butter
- 3 tablespoons water
- 60 g (about ¼ cup) crème fraîche
- 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard
- 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Trim the leeks, slice them lengthwise, and rinse thoroughly to remove any dirt. Cut into thin half-moons. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over medium-low heat, add the leeks with a pinch of salt and the water, and stir well. Cover and cook gently for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are completely tender. Remove the lid and allow any remaining liquid to evaporate. Stir in the crème fraîche and mustard, then cook for another 2 minutes over low heat. Finish with lemon juice, black pepper, and a little more salt if needed. Serve warm.
3. French Watercress and Potato Soup (Velouté de Cresson et Pommes de Terre)
This lovely green soup is an old-fashioned French favourite, made with little more than watercress, potatoes, and a good vegetable stock. The potatoes make it naturally creamy, while the watercress brings a fresh, slightly peppery flavour that feels particularly welcome in winter.
Serves 4 | Prep: 10 minutes | Cook: 25 minutes
- 150 g (5¼ oz) fresh watercress
- 300 g (10½ oz) potatoes, peeled and diced
- 1 small onion, chopped
- 20 g (1½ tablespoons) unsalted butter
- 750 ml (about 3¼ cups) vegetable stock, divided
- 2 tablespoons crème fraîche, optional
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Wash the watercress thoroughly, removing any tough stems. Melt the butter in a saucepan and gently cook the onion for 4 minutes. Add the potatoes and 650 ml of the vegetable stock, bring to a simmer, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Add the watercress and cook for just 2 minutes, until wilted but still bright green. Remove from the heat and blend until smooth. Stir in the crème fraîche if using, and season well with salt and pepper. Add the remaining stock as needed to reach your preferred consistency. Serve immediately, without boiling the soup again, to preserve its fresh flavour and colour.
4. Baked Endives With Ham and Béchamel (Endives au Jambon)
This is a comforting French family dish, especially popular in northern France. Tender endives are wrapped in ham, covered with a simple béchamel sauce, and baked until golden. The slight bitterness of the endives is what makes the dish so lovely against the creamy sauce.
Serves 4 | Prep: 15 minutes | Cook: 45–50 minutes
- 4 large Belgian endives (chicory)
- 4 slices cooked ham
- 30 g (about 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, plus a little for the dish
- 30 g (¼ cup) all-purpose flour
- 400 ml (about 1⅔ cups) whole milk
- 70 g (about ¾ cup) grated Gruyère or Emmental
- A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F. Trim the bases of the endives, removing any damaged outer leaves. Place them in a saucepan with about 2 cm (¾ inch) of lightly salted water. Cover and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, turning once, until tender. Drain the endives thoroughly and gently press out any excess water before wrapping them in ham. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until smooth and thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Wrap each drained endive in a slice of ham and arrange in a lightly buttered baking dish. Pour over the béchamel, sprinkle with cheese, and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until bubbling and golden. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.
5. Traditional French Chicken and Vegetables (Poule au Pot à l’Ancienne)
Poule au pot is one of those reassuring French dishes that ask for very little attention once everything is in the pot. A whole chicken is gently simmered with winter vegetables, creating tender meat and a beautifully fragrant broth. Serve it with a little Dijon mustard and good bread to soak up the juices.
Serves 4–6 | Prep: 20 minutes | Cook: 1 hour 30 minutes–2 hours
- 1 whole chicken, about 1.5–1.8 kg (3–4 lb)
- 4 carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces
- 3 leeks, trimmed and thoroughly washed
- 3 medium turnips, peeled and quartered
- 2 celery stalks, cut into large pieces
- 1 onion, peeled and halved
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 sprigs fresh thyme
- 6 black peppercorns
- 2 teaspoons fine salt, plus more to taste
- Dijon mustard, to serve
Place the chicken in a large pot and cover with cold water by about 2 cm (¾ inch). Bring slowly to a gentle simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, and salt. Cover partially and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Add the carrots, leeks, turnips, and celery, and continue simmering gently until the vegetables are tender and the chicken is fully cooked. Begin checking the chicken after about 30 minutes, as cooking times vary depending on its size. The thickest parts of the breast and thigh should reach at least 74°C/165°F, without the thermometer touching the bone. If the chicken is ready before the vegetables, remove it from the pot and keep it covered while the vegetables finish cooking. Remove the chicken, carve it into portions, and arrange on a large serving platter with the vegetables. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning. Serve in shallow bowls with some of the hot broth and a little Dijon mustard on the side.
6. Traditional French Potato Gratin (Gratin Dauphinois)
Few French dishes are as comforting as a good gratin dauphinois. Thinly sliced potatoes are slowly baked in milk and cream with a little garlic until meltingly tender and beautifully golden on top. Traditionally, there is no cheese: the potatoes and cream are quite enough.
Serves 4–6 | Prep: 15 minutes | Cook: 1 hour 10–20 minutes
- 1 kg (2.2 lb) potatoes, preferably Yukon Gold or another all-purpose variety
- 300 ml (1¼ cups) heavy cream
- 200 ml (¾ cup plus 1½ tablespoons) whole milk
- 2 garlic cloves
- 15 g (1 tablespoon) unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon fine salt, or to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper
- A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F. Peel the potatoes and slice them very thinly, about 2–3 mm (⅛ inch) thick. Do not rinse them after slicing, as their starch helps thicken the cream. Rub a baking dish with one halved garlic clove, then butter it generously. Finely mince the second garlic clove and add it to a saucepan with the cream, milk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Warm gently without boiling. Arrange the potatoes in the baking dish, approximately 20 × 30 cm (8 × 12 inches). Pour over the warm cream mixture, and press down lightly so most of the potatoes are submerged. Cover loosely with foil and bake for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 25 to 35 minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender when pierced with a knife and the top is golden. If it browns too quickly, cover again. Let the gratin rest for 10 minutes before serving. It is especially lovely alongside roast chicken or a simple green salad.
7. Roasted Winter Squash With Thyme, Walnuts, and Honey (Courge Rôtie au Thym, aux Noix et au Miel)
Roasting is one of the simplest ways to make the most of winter squash. The edges become golden, the flesh turns wonderfully tender, and a little honey, fresh thyme, and toasted walnuts bring everything together. It’s a lovely side dish for roast chicken, but also delicious with a green salad and a piece of good cheese.
Serves 4 | Prep: 10–15 minutes | Cook: 30–35 minutes
- 1 medium butternut squash, about 1 kg (2.2 lb) before peeling and deseeding
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 tablespoon honey
- 50 g (about ½ cup) walnuts, roughly chopped
- 4 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
- ½ teaspoon fine salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F. Peel the squash, remove the seeds, and cut into wedges or cubes approximately 3–4 cm (1¼–1½ inches) thick. Place on a large baking tray, toss with the olive oil, salt, pepper, and thyme leaves, and spread out in a single layer. Roast for 25 minutes, turning once, until beginning to soften and brown. Drizzle with the honey, scatter over the walnuts, and return to the oven for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the squash is tender and caramelised and the walnuts are lightly toasted. Watch carefully so the honey and nuts do not burn. Remove from the oven, sprinkle with the apple cider vinegar, and toss gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving warm.
I would simply like to say thank you. I enjoy your writings ever so much. All of this gorgeous content causes me to feel such contentment and gratefulness.
Ah, the kind of post I live for! Getting a new stove this weekend, so now am looking forward to bringing new recipes to our table. Have tried (and we’ve so enjoyed) the many you’ve already posted. Matter-of-fact, am switching out the traditional mashed potatoes for the au gratin this Thanksgiving.
As always, thank you, Leonce, for sharing and Bon Appetit everyone!