Corner of the Garden, Alcazar, Sevilla by Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida

In Search of Mediterranean Magic

We’ve only just begun to sketch out the outline of our August holiday (did you know that in French we have charming words for this, aoûtiens for those who holiday in August, juilletistes for those in July?). And as I was thinking it over, almost without meaning to, I found myself setting an intention for the summer. Not a destination, not even a plan exactly, but a wish. If I could name just one desire for this season, it would be this: to seek out what I like to call authentic Mediterranean magic.

If you’ve ever travelled through the South of France, in Provence, along the Côte d’Azur, or perhaps through the Balearics, the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre, or the Greek islands, you may already know the less idyllic side of these beloved places. The traffic jams that stretch on endlessly. The packed beaches. The long queues and the constant hum of noise in villages that once felt hushed and suspended in time. Some places, made famous (or should we say oversaturated?) by social media, seem to become postcards of themselves, emptied of locals, and with them, the spirit that made them beautiful in the first place.

And yet, I remain, always, an optimist. I believe there’s another way to experience the Mediterranean. A quieter, more reverent way. One that brings us back to what feels true: the scent of sun-warmed pine, of dry earth and olive groves; the rustle of the mistral through the trees; the hum of cicadas under the heat. A palette of natural, vibrant color: the deep blue of the sky, the terracotta soil, the wild pinks and oranges of bougainvillea, oleander, and hibiscus. And the flavours… to me, Mediterranean cuisine is simply the most exquisite in the world.

It was exactly this kind of experience we had last year during our summer on the island of Ibiza, which I shared with you here. Because yes, even in the most tourist-swept places, that Mediterranean magic still exists: intact, waiting to be found by those willing to step just a little off the beaten path.

This year, we’re planning a return to Mallorca (our third time), right in the thick of August, when half of Europe (and perhaps three-quarters of France) flocks to the sun. And so, as we begin preparing for the trip, I thought: why not share a little guide? Nothing definitive, of course. Just a personal reflection; light-hearted, humble, and written with a wink. A kind of essay, really, for anyone dreaming of finding that authentic Mediterranean magic this summer, wherever the wind may carry you :).

Notes on Slow Travel, Local Secrets & the Art of Doing Less

If you’re thinking of heading to the South of France this summer, may I offer a suggestion :)? Choose the inland parts of Provence over the star-studded villages of the Côte d’Azur. It’s a little anti–Saint-Tropez, and that’s precisely the charm.

And above all, if I may share one friendly piece of advice: leave Instagram and TikTok behind. The places that flood your feed on repeat will likely be crowded, overpriced, overrated, and truthfully, often a little disappointing in person. Instead? Do as we once did. Pick up an old-fashioned Guide du Routard, a pocket-sized book about the region, or dig into a few well-kept blogs (I hope this one makes the list). Even Reddit, oddly enough, can be a treasure trove.

More importantly: ask the locals. The hotel staff, your Airbnb host, the barista at the morning café… That’s how we once discovered one of our favourite addresses in Mykonos: Nikolas Taverna. A humble little place, tables in the sand, where we returned again and again. No algorithm would have pointed us there.

And whatever you do, leave your FOMO at home. That creeping fear of missing out, of not seeing enough, of not ticking off all the “musts.” There’s no single right way to experience a place. Sometimes I wonder if we do things for ourselves… or simply so we can say we’ve done them.

Learn how to do nothing. And delight in it. Spend long, golden hours beneath a fig tree, listening to cicadas, thinking of nothing in particular… It’s a perfectly acceptable holiday plan. Dolce far niente, as they say. And no, it’s not an empty phrase, it’s a philosophy :).

When choosing where to eat, here’s a simple reflex: look at the menu. If it’s translated into six languages and offers everything from sushi to crêpes, tread carefully. The shorter the list, the more likely the food is homemade. And do taste the local flavours, a glass of regional wine, grilled fish, a peppery olive oil… Sometimes the journey begins on your plate.

And why not bring along a travel scent? A fresh eau de toilette, a sun-warmed body oil, a citrus cologne… something you wear every day. When you return home, just a drop will bring everything back: the light, the sea, the salt on your skin. A memory captured in scent, far more vivid than a photograph.

When it comes to lodging, if you can, stay a little outside the city. In the Balearic Islands, for instance, look for fincas or rural hotels. Often calmer, sometimes less expensive, and always more rooted in the spirit of place.

And if you’re feeling adventurous, rent a car, or better yet, a Vespa. That’s how we stumbled upon Las Puertas del Cielo in Ibiza last summer: a hidden spot at the end of a pine-lined path, where we had lunch on the edge of a cliff, nearly alone. That, to me, is true luxury.

As much as possible, avoid all-inclusive resorts or full-board hotels that tempt you to stay within their walls. There’s so much waiting beyond, to see, to feel, to explore. Places where life still feels uncurated.

And if I may leave you with one last thought: pack a notebook. Just something small. Write down a phrase, a colour, a scent, a word overheard. Even one line a day. That little notebook will become a souvenir more intimate, and more lasting, than any photo album.

So, wherever you choose to travel this summer, I hope these few reflections might offer a new way of looking at your holiday, a gentler rhythm, a different perspective, perhaps a new kind of joy. Because as you’ve likely sensed by now, that elusive Mediterranean magic can’t be found on any map. It lives instead in the way we move through a place, in how we choose to travel, to notice, to let go. It’s not so much about where we go, but how we go.

As for me, I’ll be setting off once again in search of that authentic Mediterranean magic I’m always drawn to… and if I’m lucky enough to find a little of it, I hope to bring it back to you, in a future blog post, or perhaps, in a letter. Because that’s the true magic of travel, isn’t it? You never quite know what you’ll bring back with you :).

Bon voyage mes ami.e.s!

Show Comments (13)
  1. I appreciate your thoughts here and as a more mature traveler I have had the opportunity to visit
    many of the “not to miss” places. But as I revisit some of them I find myself coming away somewhat disappointed, as the crowds increase and the casualness of the traveler seems to diminish the overall charm which I thought was once there. I guess I am saying, things are not what they used to be. And I get it that the locals are protesting the influx of tourism. However, hope springs eternal, and I too am looking for quiet, untouched areas to enjoy local food and meet new friends. You do learn to appreciate the small church, local museum, family owned restaurant and the connection you get with the locals. I will anxiously await your next blog.

    1. Diane, thank you so much for your thoughtful comment! I completely understand what you mean, the charm of certain places can feel altered with time, especially as crowds grow and that sense of intimacy fades. But like you, I find myself more and more drawn to quiet corners, family-run places, and the beauty of everyday moments. There’s something deeply meaningful in those slower, smaller encounters. Thank you for reading <3

  2. Merci Mille Fois — transporting me to the South of France visited so many time but cannot be undertaken again for various reasons—
    A few restaurants and the cuisine would be an added bonus —Merci encore une fois
    Irene Bowman

    1. Merci, Irene! I’m so glad the piece could bring a bit of the South of France to you, even from afar. I’ll be sure to include a few favorite restaurants and notes on the cuisine next time. Merci encore for reading and for your kind words.

  3. Wonderful comments on summer travel!!
    The problem I’m now encountering is advertising that covers your space that one can’t get rid of!! Any suggestions??

    1. Thank you so much, Daniella, I’m so glad you enjoyed the piece on Mediterranean magic! Regarding the ads: you can always dismiss the little ones at the bottom of your screen (whether on mobile or desktop) by clicking the small ✖️. I completely understand they can be a bit distracting but they’re just a modest way for me to earn a little income and help keep this corner of the internet running. Merci for your understanding, and for being here 🙂

  4. With a grade school age daughter, we are limited in when we can travel, especially because none of us are fans of overly hot weather. We tend to travel the last week of June and first week of July, and then spend late July/early August at our cabin in the mountains here in CA, a much more relaxed vacation than the earlier travel. This year we went to Alaska. Last year was Maine/PEI/Quebec/Montreal/Boston. The previous year, the National Parks of the US SouthWest (New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona). Before that, Scotland. All amazing, for different reasons.

    It’s decades since I’ve been to the Med and I miss it. We have Paris/Provence/Somewhere still TBD in France on our list for before our daughter heads to University and therefore still travels with us. After that, we’ll be able to travel in early September, perhaps April (I work in higher education, so am also somewhat tied to the academic year), to help avoid the heat and the crowds. In retirement, the world will truly be our oyster!

    Thanks for this piece. It was relaxing just to read it! Wishing you a delightful trip.

  5. I have enjoyed your monthly newsletter over the years, but you have taken it to higher ground. I love and delight the sensory breeze, the feeling of fresh air and the invitation to our senses, imagination, refection. It has become a delightful experience to reconnect with life in a most subtle, quieter, insightful way. Thank you!

    1. Monica, thank you so much for your beautiful words ❤️ I’m so touched to know that the newsletter brings you a sense of quiet and reflection. If it offers even a small moment of stillness and beauty, then I’m deeply grateful. Merci for reading, and for being part of this little world.

  6. We went on a Mediterranean cruise last summer and it was glorious! We traveled thru a vineyard on electric bicycles, traveled by bus though the countryside, and walked the streets of Barcelona, Toulon, Florence, Amazon, and Ibiza. Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue is my summer fragrance since then. Hope you have wonderful summer tri.p

    1. Tara, what lovely summer memories! La dolce vita, indeed 🙂 And Light Blue is such a perfect scent for that kind of sun-soaked adventure. If you love it, I think you’d also adore Acqua di Parma, it has that same fresh, elegant Mediterranean spirit. Wishing you many more beautiful travels ahead!

  7. I feel my blood pressure relaxing along with my mind, body and soul, just reading this. It is as close as I will ever get to Mediterranean Magic but it is a much appreciated gift nevertheless. Thank you! Merci beaucoup!

    1. Lora, thank you so much <3 If this brought even a little Mediterranean calm your way, then I couldn’t ask for more. Merci beaucoup for reading and for being here.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Get weekly Parisian style

Join 38,000 readers receiving letters on French and Parisian style, beauty, and the art de vivre.

DISCOVER arrow pointing right