Last week, at 16 Rue Vivienne in Paris, the house of Céline unveiled its Spring 2026 runway show. As I browsed through the looks, a few silhouettes immediately stood out, there was something quietly striking about them. Curious, I looked a little closer and discovered the reason: this was the debut collection of Céline’s newly appointed creative director, Michael Rider, following Hedi Slimane’s departure last year.
I hadn’t realized Rider had spent nearly a decade working under Phoebe Philo during her time at Céline, which makes perfect sense, now that I think about it. I also learned he served as creative director for Polo Ralph Lauren for six years, which might explain why I’ve been so fond of that line in recent years, almost instinctively.
And if I may be completely honest (unpopular opinion alert): I never truly embraced the Hedi Slimane era at Céline. In my view, the silhouettes often leaned toward the overly slim, short, and dark, and occasionally so stylized they felt more performative than truly wearable. It never quite echoed the Céline I had loved. Instead, it brought to mind familiar signatures from Slimane’s earlier work at Dior and Saint Laurent, a sense of déjà vu.
Yet I’ve always loved the spirit of the brand, that discreet, bourgeois Parisian elegance: minimalist and Rive Gauche, or preppy-chic with a subtle, modern equestrian undertone, very 16th arrondissement. A few years ago, I even invested in a vintage Céline bag with the beautiful flap closure and the original horse carriage logo—which, to me, felt somehow truer than the more recent and wildly popular Triomphe bag adorned with the intertwined ‘C’ motif.
And this latest show? A lovely surprise. I found some truly inspiring pieces, a rich source of fashion ideas for the season ahead. My only real reservation would be the omnipresence of the logo: on the bags, the T-shirts, the sweaters, the shoes… a touch too much, in my view. But of course, that’s just me :). I hope you enjoy this review as much as I loved writing it.
A beautiful look here: a black turtleneck layered under a cardigan worn cape-style over the shoulders. A mix of chunky necklaces and charm-laden chains that evoke those seen at Chloé. The trousers are fluid, wide-leg, cropped, and cream-colored, très chic. I also loved the discreet logo detail on the belt. A structured, rectangular wicker basket and a pair of Mary Jane-style ballet flats complete the look.
I’m very drawn to this all-black outfit, though I’m not quite sure why, it feels distinctly New York to me. A long black coat with sharp shoulders defines the silhouette in a clean, minimalist way. What I particularly liked here was how the look is disrupted just enough with layered belts and rings worn on nearly every finger.
A beautiful color palette: camel, a soft pale yellow, and touches of red and blue that bring a modern lift to the look. The scarf isn’t tied around the neck but simply peeks out from under the collar, a detail I loved. The bags are becoming oversized and slouchy, perfect for carrying the essentials with a bit of nonchalance ;).
I adore this silhouette, it’s one of my favorites from the collection. The long black coat isn’t cut straight but gently cinched at the waist, and I love how the high-collared ivory silk shirt emerges so cleanly from underneath. So elegant.
A cropped faux fur coat paired with beautifully tailored barrel-leg trousers, worn with white socks and soft cream loafers. This barrel-leg shape also appears in denim versions, it’s a recurring theme throughout the collection.
A more classic silhouette: a black blazer with broad shoulders, slightly fitted at the waist, a crisp white shirt, and a silk scarf that adds just the right amount of color, paired with barrel-leg jeans. Have you noticed this new belt design? The logo is more subtle now, and I think it works beautifully.
This is another favorite silhouette of mine, especially for the color combination: beige, electric blue, green, brown, and camel. I’m obsessed with the boots, which evoke a bit of a Gucci spirit. I also love this new style of wide-leg trousers, slightly cropped.
A striking color pairing in this look: khaki green with camel. The blazer is long, features broad shoulders, but nips in at the waist to keep the silhouette feminine. I also loved the slightly boho, satchel-style bag, a nice contrast to the preppy tailoring of the suit.
And then, this dress. Structured yet feminine, it truly flatters the figure. I loved the contrast between the minimalist cut, the sharp tailoring, and the slightly more maximalist trim that gives it such a refined fall. And for once, the dress is styled with little black socks and derbies. Unexpected, and so good.
This is one of my favorite silhouettes. I love the layering: a black shirt over a white turtleneck, topped with an ivory blazer and cream palazzo trousers. The white-on-black jacket layering reminds me of a Chloé collection from a few years ago. I’m not entirely convinced by the snake-effect leather bag, but overall, I find the silhouette striking.
I adore this look! So urban, so chic, and yet so effortlessly put together. I particularly like the idea of replacing a crisp white poplin shirt (which can sometimes feel a bit too café garçon) with a shirt in a cream or even vanilla shade. I also love the styling note of layering it over a white turtleneck. Add a barrel-leg jean (something in the spirit of Totême), a pair of camel ankle boots, a tote bag that closely resembles The Row’s Margaux, and there you have it.
A minimalist dress that still feels original, and when paired with that straw hat, it immediately calls to mind the most recent Jacquemus collections. A minimal, chic silhouette that I find myself drawn to more and more these days.
I’m also quite taken with the cut of this coat: long, with strong shoulders that curve slightly, a wide collar, double-breasted, cinched tightly at the waist and flared through the hips. The model’s hair is tied back with a large black bow (very Chanel), and she carries a satchel-style bag in a croc-effect leather. You can just make out a beautiful pair of pointed-toe boots (or are they booties?) in beige suede, with a slight heel. A silhouette that feels romantic, but still modern and elegant, I absolutely love it.
