Why you need to exfoliate
Exfoliation is a natural phenomenon that occurs at every cycle of epidermis renewal when the epidermis sheds its dead cells; due to sun damage or genetics. However, this process can slow down especially when you age. If that superficial part of the epidermis is not taken off quick enough, your complexion may appear dull and uneven.
That is why exfoliation should be part of your daily facial skin care routine to aid the natural exfoliation process. Exfoliation is one of the most effective ways to promote youthful skin. By exfoliating your skin, you will remove dead skin cells from the surface layer of your skin and improve your skin’s texture and tone as it will bring fresh, new cells to the surface of your skin.
There are different ways to exfoliate your skin by using manual exfoliators, cleansing brushes, and chemical exfoliators. Manual exfoliators are very common and contain many different types of granules (ex: sugar, salt, beads or crystals) that eliminate dead skin cells from the surface layer of your skin. But nor the manual exfoliators or the cleansing brushes will replace the benefits of a well-formulated, acid-based exfoliator. Since I’ve first started to use chemical exfoliators, I’m in love with the Caudalie Glycolic Peel Mask that I’m using once a week and leave my skin so soft and bright. And because I’m always trying to test new products and because I’ve read a lot of good reviews on the Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, I wanted to give a chance to this product and see by myself the results.
What is Lotion P50 by Biologique Recherche
Lotion P50 is a liquid balancing exfoliator designed to exfoliate the skin while regulating sebum production and maintaining skin’s pH balance. According to Biologique Recherche, these balancing and exfoliating lotions speed up the epidermis’ natural exfoliating process and the reconstruction of the epidermal shield. These lotions not only exfoliate but also purify, regenerate and maintain the pH of the skin.
There are four different versions of Biologique Recherche’s Lotions P50 available: the Lotion P50, the Lotion P50V, the Lotion P50W and the Lotion P50 PIGM400. Each one provides the same core benefits, but their formulations change slightly to suit each and every skin. All formulas use effective exfoliating and reconditioning ingredients such as AHA (alpha hydroxy acids: salicylic acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acids: malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid), PHA (polyhydroxy acids: gluconolactone), cider vinegar and sulfur.
The Lotion P50 is the purest and the strongest formula with a high concentration of acids that penetrates the epidermis quickly, which is only suitable for thicker skins. The Lotion P50V is an enriched exfoliating and purifying facial lotion with vitamins to revitalize and which is recommended for dull and mature skin types. The Lotion P50W is a gentle exfoliating lotion enriched with arnica to soothe the skin, specially designed for thin to normal, sensitive skins. Finally, the Lotion P50 PIGM400 has been specially designed for dull and pigmented skin types and enriched with brightening active ingredients and antioxidants.
How to use Lotion P50
I went to Liberty at Biologique Recherche corner to choose the most appropriate formula of Lotion P50 for my skin type. I’ve been advised using the Lotion P50W: the most gentle exfoliating lotion of the range, enriched with arnica and specially designed for thin and sensitive skin types. The first two weeks are called the “phase d’initialisation“, this means that you will need to dilute the Lotion P50W by dampening a cotton pad and to gently pat it all over the face and the neck like an essence. At the start, it’s really important to do so as your skin needs time to adapt to the formulation of the lotion.
After the “phase d’initialisation“, you can start to use the Lotion P50W pure with a cotton pad all over the face and the neck. It’s recommended to only use the Lotion P50W at night, after cleansing your skin and before your serum and your night cream. Also if you’re using the Lotion P50W every day, you’ll need to stop all other exfoliators especially glycolic peels and also retinol creams.
My opinion on Lotion P50W
After the first application, I expected to feel the acidity of the solution and to feel the flush on my skin, but other than inhaling a strong vinegary scent, nothing happened. By the way, some people don’t like the smell (vinegar) but in this formulation, vinegar is working as a preservative instead of using alcohol for this purpose. After two weeks, I’ve started noticing the effect of Lotion P50W, the acids tackle skin problems from every angle: resurfacing the skin, zapping all blemishes, healing acne scars and removing all dead skin cells, so that what you use after it is more able to penetrate.
This adoration period lasts exactly 4 weeks until my skin gets completely dehydrated! I could see all fine lines due to dehydration, the texture of my skin completely changed also. Pimples due to dehydration appeared on my foreheads and I get also some redness on my cheeks. However, I do think my skin looked and felt more balanced, my T-zone was less shiny (which is usually very oily), my acne scars completely disappeared and overall my skin felt brighter and clearer.
Either my skin is too thin or sensitive for the Lotion P50W or my dehydration was caused by the night cream I was using after applying the lotion. I was only using a mix of Dr Hauschka Revitalising Day Cream and Dr Hauschka Clarifying Day Oil after having applied the lotion, which is maybe not “strong” enough to compensate the exfoliation induced by the Lotion P50W. So in combination with the Lotion P50, I’ll recommend using the Biologique Recherche Placenta Crème after each application of the lotion in order to soothe and re-hydrate the skin.
After a month of use, I decided to give my skin a break and stop using Lotion P50W and all other glycolic exfoliators in order for my skin to recover from dehydration. I could see the difference my skin was “plumper”, less dehydrated and dehydration fine lines were less visible. Now, I’m using the Lotion P50W like a common glycolic exfoliator this means only once/twice a week instead of once every day, in order to let my skin more time to recover and avoid dehydration. I do think Lotion P50W from Biologique Recherche is a very good exfoliator but I’m not convinced that your skin needs to be exfoliated (even if with a gentle exfoliator like Lotion P50W) every single day. I’ll recommend to use it like a common exfoliator this means maximum twice a week.
Where to find Lotion P50
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is available in the UK from Liberty London
It’s best to go to the Biologique Recherche corner shop at Liberty and get some advice from the aesthetician.
You can find worldwide stockists here: Biologique Recherche